It's been a fine year for wine lovers, and those who make and enjoy Washington wines have much for which to be thankful. The state's steady growth continues, with the number of bonded wineries now hovering around 380 — a number unthinkable even a decade ago.

The just-completed vintage is being universally hailed as potentially one of the greatest ever, and after the difficult, short crop of 2004 it brought welcome abundance — quantity as well as quality — to this state's vintners.

My own interests and columns in 2005 ranged widely; from Priorat, Navarra and Rias Baixas in Spain, to Chianti and Friuli in Italy; from the wines of South Africa to the great growths of Bordeaux. But time and again I found myself wandering Washington vineyards — Otis, Celilo, Cailloux, Klipsun, Cold Creek and Pepper Bridge — and seeing firsthand how winemakers translate those magic places into brilliant flavors. That to me is as exciting as it gets; I hope I inspired you to make your own visits to wine country.

Some of the trends first spotted in this column in 2003 and 2004 emerged into the national spotlight in 2005. Box wines are now in vogue, and for good reason. Seek out the three liter (not five liter) size and look for varietal wines (named for grapes such as cabernet, shiraz and chardonnay), and you'll find some excellent values, especially from Australia and California. Box wines allow you to enjoy just a glass with dinner and not waste the rest; they store wine efficiently and travel well.

New packaging continues to be introduced as wine emerges from the stuffiness of the 20th century and fashions itself a more friendly, youthful image. The best innovation of 2005 is the Vino-Seal glass stopper being used by Sineann's Peter Rosback (see Pick of the Week). These classy new closures completely eliminate cork and its associated problems, require no corkscrew to remove and are stunningly lovely, resembling a crystal decanter stopper.

Not all packaging experiments are as successful. I fervently hope that the handful of overzealous winemakers (you know who you are) who insist on slathering their wine bottles with fake plastic "wax" will cease and desist! This stuff dries to a hard shell finish that makes it almost impossible to remove. Sommeliers, do you enjoy opening these wines? I can't imagine how anyone in a restaurant can wrestle one of these bottles open without drawing blood.

In one of the year's more unusual wine pitches, Jon Rimmerman of Garagiste described the winemaking philosophy of Tuscany's Carlo Cignozz. Cignozz, who owns the Paradiso di Frassina winery, has determined that playing Brahms and Beethoven in his vineyard makes the vines calm and happy, and produces larger, more evenly-ripened grapes. (If gloomy old Ludwig can do that, imagine what some reggae might do.)

New projects under way

Closer to home, sustainable viticulture is gaining in popularity, and advocates are finding ways to re-vitalize soils that have been damaged by too many years of chemical applications. A group called Vinea, the Winegrowers Sustainable Trust (www.vineatrust.com), has begun organizing growers in the Walla Walla Valley, and is dedicated to promoting stewardship of both the natural and human environment. It's not just a feel-good project; the ultimate result will be better, more complex wines.

Exciting new projects are being rolled out in every corner of this state. The first wines with Washington's sixth AVA (federally-approved appellation) — Columbia Gorge — have begun to appear; meanwhile the seventh (Horse Heaven Hills) was approved this summer. In the works are applications for a Lake Chelan AVA, a Cold Creek AVA, a Wahluke Slope AVA and several others, all signs that the wine industry is making good progress exploring and defining the many types of growing environments scattered across the state.

The Cave B Inn at Sagecliff (www.cavebinn.com) opened this past spring, a stunning retreat perched high above the Gorge just south of the famous amphitheater/music venue.

On Red Mountain, the Department of Natural Resources has awarded long-term leases on 86 acres for vineyard and winery development. Among the new leaseholders is Larry Stone, a former Seattle resident and one of the first Americans to win Sommelier of the Year.

The new projects are the first stage of an ambitious plan to expand tourism in the region. Another big boost for Red Mountain this year was the groundbreaking for a new Col Solare winery, a joint venture of Ste. Michelle Wine Estates and the Antinori family of Tuscany.

Tasting events aplenty

Wine tourism in Washington, which seemed to be an oxymoron for years, has suddenly become an embarrassment of riches. Woodinville has more than 30 wineries; Columbia Cascade (Chelan/Leavenworth/Wenatchee) another 30 or so. Both communities are embracing wine tourists and offer excellent tasting events throughout the year. Yakima is also rolling out the welcome mat, and Prosser has new wineries and tasting rooms that make a great stopping point for visitors headed to Walla Walla. The Walter Clore Wine & Culinary Center is slated to begin construction in March, with the grand opening scheduled for May 31, 2007.

On a recent visit to Spokane, I saw the classy new tasting room where Barrister winery is headquartered, in a three-story brick warehouse in Spokane's rapidly improving Davenport Arts District. Just added to the city's downtown winery-tasting rooms is a second facility for Arbor Crest, at River Park Square.

And Walla Walla, now with well over 70 wineries, continues to draw tourists from both Washington and Oregon with its nonstop lineup of tasting events and charity auctions throughout the year. Of special note in 2006 will be Taste Walla Walla (March), Spring Release weekend (May 6-7) and Vintage Walla Walla (June 2-3).

Celebrate year-round

Apart from urging you to explore some new corner of Washington wine country, the message that I most want to leave you with is to enjoy the pleasures of wine and food and companionship throughout the new year, not just briefly over the holidays. My column last month challenged readers to do a quick mental inventory of what forgotten treasures might lie in their cellars. How much of what is down there has been tasted recently? Wouldn't it be a good idea to get out a cherished bottle or two tonight? Tonight can be a special occasion, if you make it one.

Those words brought a flood of enthusiastic responses. Winemaker John Bell wrote "I'm as guilty as anyone about buying, then forgetting about, some great wines — only to rediscover them years after their prime. D'OH! Now, whenever someone asks me how long the wines I make will keep, I answer, 'Drink 'em now. I'll make more.' "

Reader Linda Daily described her annual "Dead Red" party, where she and her friends taste through old wines that might be dead, but hopefully aren't. Jennifer Bundy wrote to say "I always read and enjoy your wine column but just want you to know today's column was especially cool! I will take your advice — and I bet my life will be better for it!"

I do believe that the pleasure and companionship that wine can foster does enhance lives. My sincere thanks to all of you who share my joy in the subject; to the retailers, distributors and importers whose passion for wine serves their customers so well; and most of all to the dedicated, talented winemakers and growers of Washington state, who make what to me is simply one of the most miraculous, fascinating and endlessly delightful products on Earth.

Happy New Year to you all, and may 2006 be the year in which your best wines, best friends and best times all come together.

Paul Gregutt is the author of "Northwest Wines." His column appears weekly in the Wine section. He can be reached by e-mail at wine@seattletimes.com.