San Juan Island is the most developed of the major San Juan Islands and the most practical to visit without a car.

Friday Harbor's shops, restaurants, galleries and museums are within walking distance of the ferry landing. B&Bs and hotels are nearby, and bus service is available to other parts of the island.

Memorial Day weekend will be busy, but there's still time to beat the summer crowds. Things slow down again until the Fourth of July. July and August are the busiest months when many accommodations are booked in advance.

Getting there

The Victoria Clipper's service from Seattle to Friday Harbor operates on Saturdays and Sundays through this weekend, then daily starting Saturday, May 13. The Clipper leaves the downtown Seattle waterfront at 7:30 a.m., arriving at 10:30 a.m. It departs from Friday Harbor at 4 p.m., arriving in Seattle at 7 p.m. Adult round-trip fares through this weekend are $29. With seven-day advance booking, adult fares are $39 May 13-Sept. 10. Children ride free with paying adults. Without advance reservations, adult fares are $49, half-price for children.

The Clipper is quick, efficient, no-frills transportation - more like being on an airplane or a bus than a cruise ship. There's limited food service, drinks and free coffee. Bikes can be brought on board for an extra $10 (advance reservations required). For information, call 206-448-5000. Web: www.

victoriaclipper.com.

-- Seaplane service to Friday Harbor and Roche Harbor is available via Kenmore Air from Kenmore and Lake Union. Adult round-trip weekend fares are $160-$175. The flight from Lake Union takes about an hour, about 20 minutes longer from Kenmore. Call 800-543-9595. Web: www.kenmoreair.

com.

-- Washington State ferries carry walk-on passengers and bikes. Pay parking is available in Anacortes. The adult round-trip fare for walk-ons is $5.30, with reduced fares for children and seniors. The 90-minute trip is scenic and relaxing. For information and schedules, call 800-843-3779.

Getting around

Privately-owned San Juan Transit runs hourly bus service from 9 a.m.-7 p.m. around the island, and also has direct service between Friday Harbor and Roche Harbor. Weekend service only until Sunday, May 14. Daily runs start Monday, May 15. Adult fares are $4 one-way, $7 round-trip. Day passes, $10. Stops include Lime Kiln Point State Park ("Whale Watch Park"), American Camp and English Camp. Information, 360-378-8887. Web: www.san

juantransit.com.

Taxi service and rental cars are also available. Bicycles can be rented for $5 an hour, mopeds for around $16. San Juan is about 15 miles long and 8 miles wide.

Lodging

There are a number of places to stay within walking distance of the ferry landing. Contact the B&B Association of Friday Harbor, 360-378-3030. Web: www.san-juan

-island.net. Our room for two at the Argyle House was $85 including breakfast. For information, call 800-624-3459. The San Juan Chamber of Commerce, 360-378-5240, carries a list of hotels, inns and B&Bs on its Web site: www.san

juanisland.org.

Things to do

Walking, hiking, biking, whale-watching and kayaking top the list of things to do on San Juan Island. Summer is prime whale-watching time, and a number of outfitters offer excursions. For maps and information on organized tours, contact the San Juan Chamber. Whale-watching tours take around three hours; kayak excursions are from two to six hours.

A good place to stop before a whale-watching trip is the Whale Museum, 62 First St. N. Open daily 10 a.m.- 5p.m., 9 a.m. after Memorial Day. Admission is $5 for adults with reduced prices for seniors and students. Children under 5 are free. Call 360-378-4710. Web: www.whale-museum.org.

Favorite hiking spots include the historic English and American camps, former military camps constructed when both countries almost went to battle over the island; Lime Kiln Park for whale-watching, and the areas around Roche Harbor at the north end of the island.

Upcoming events

Roche Harbor's annual Return of the Orca festival is Saturday, May 20. The one-day event celebrates the return of the Orca whale, and will include a nautical flea market and a clam-chowder competition.

The annual San Juan Jazz Festival, held for the past 20 years on the fourth weekend in July, will be Oct. 13-15. About 1,500 people turn out for the festival, and the crowds became too much for the island to handle in the summer. Information, 360-378-5509. Web: www.sanjuanjazz.org.

General information

Contact the San Juan Chamber of Commerce, 360-378-5240. Web: www.sanjuanisland.org. Brochures and maps are available at its office in Friday Harbor on Front Street. Information is also available from the San Juan Islands Visitor Information Service, 888-468-3701. Web: www.guidetosanjuans.

com. Friday's Historical Inn, 35 First St., publishes useful tourist information on its Web site:

www.friday-harbor.com.

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We also do not publish wire-service or freelance travel articles when we believe the author has accepted free or reduced rates not available to the public.<>