San Juan Island is a peaceful place, beloved by urban refugees and tourists. But in the summer of 1859 it was an international tinderbox: an Anglo-American military confrontation was touched off when an American farmer shot a British-owned pig that was rooting in his garden.

The years-long dispute over American or British control of the island eventually was resolved through diplomacy, with the United States gaining possession. (The pig was the only casualty.)

The "Pig War" now is remembered through regular summertime guided walks at San Juan Island National Historical Park, which encompasses British Camp and American Camp, the sites of the island's 19th-century military bases.

This summer the park, which is run by the National Park Service, also is offering a series of workshops and talks on Native American culture of the San Juan islands.

For information on the park and its programs, contact: Superintendent, San Juan Island National Historical Park, P.O. Box 429, Friday Harbor, WA 98250. Phone (360) 378-2240.

Paddle power

For those who prefer to travel by paddle or wind power, camping permits are now on sale for the Cascadia Marine Trail. The new water trail stretches through Puget Sound from Olympia to British Columbia for about 140 miles.

The trail - to be used only by kayaks, canoes and small sailboats - has a series of designated campsites at 14 state parks and at 7 parcels of land owned by the Department of Natural Resources.

The water trail already is making waves, having been named a national recreational trail by the National Park Service.

The $14 permit allows unlimited camping along the trail and is good for a calendar year. It's available by mail through Washington State Parks, 7150 Cleanwater Lane, P.O. Box 42650, Olympia, WA 98504-2650. (Include your name, age and gender for the permit, and make the check payable to the Washington State Treasurer).

In Seattle, permits can be purchased in person at the Northwest Outdoor Center, Warshal's Sporting Goods and the Washington Water Trails Association.

Ferry-hopping in B.C.

British Columbia is trying to lure people to its Sunshine Coast circle tour, a car and ferry trip around the Lower Mainland and Vancouver Island. Discounts of 25 percent for vehicles and passengers are offered for the four-ferry package between Vancouver, the Sunshine Coast (centered on the Sechelt area north of Vancouver) and Vancouver Island.

The "CirclePac" ferry package is available year-round for travel between 10 a.m. and 4:30 p.m. daily. The total package price is collected at the first point of departure. Information: B.C. Ferries, (604) 669-1211 or (604) 386-3431.

Victoria made easier

For those traveling between Seattle and Victoria, B.C., the Victoria Clipper and the Victoria Line now sell a joint fare which can be booked through one call to either company. Passengers can go one way on the Victoria Line's spacious, comfortable ferry and one way on the higher-speed Clipper boats. Information: Clipper Navigation, 448-5000, or the Victoria Line, 625-1880.

A Seattle map with a difference

If you have friends or relatives visiting this summer, send them out sightseeing with a copy of the "Traveler's Map: Seattle." The well-designed map is like a mini-guidebook, highlighting city sights, scenic drives, restaurants, shops and more.

There's an overview map of the city, plus detailed maps of Pike Place Market, Pioneer Square and the University of Washington. Graphical inserts tell of Seattle history, the International District and give the right latte lingo.

The map, which costs $4.95, is produced by Nomadic Maps of Bellingham. A similar map of "Washington's Fourth Corner" also is available, focusing on Bellingham and Whatcom County. Information: Nomadic Maps, P.O. Box 4028, Bellingham, WA 98227. The maps can be ordered through bookstores.

Wheelchair access

For travelers who use wheelchairs, it can be difficult to track down hotels and restaurants that are wheelchair-accessible. In the Pacific Northwest, a useful resource is the guidebook "Northwest Best Places" which designates restaurants and accommodations that have wheelchair access.

For travelers to Vancouver, B.C., the SkyTrain (commuter rail) and many city buses are wheelchair-accessible. Phone Tourism Vancouver for information, (604) 683-2000.

In general, phone chambers of commerce or visitors bureaus in areas you're visiting: most should be able to provide some information.

Briefly . . .

A new sternwheeler will cruise Northwest rivers starting July 22. The Queen of the West paddleboat, operated by America West Steamboat, will be based near Portland and cruise the Columbia, Snake and Willamette rivers. Ask a travel agent or phone (800) 434-1232. . . .

The Darrington Wildflower Festival is blossoming with activities. The June 17-18 festival in the Snohomish County town will include guided nature walks, wildflower slide shows, craft booths, square-dancing and tales of old-time Darrington. Information: Darrington Chamber of Commerce, (360) 436-1177.. . . Seattle information

For information on sights and events in the Seattle area, phone the Seattle-King County Visitors and Convention Bureau, 461-5840.