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Directions (and 4 shots of courage) to make you flush with success
Q: I have been chasing down a pesky leak at my toilet for several weeks now. First it was the tank gasket, which I replaced. Then I replaced the supply pipe up to the tank, which also was leaking. I still had a problem.
Now I find that the valve at the wall has a leak. I bought a new quarter-turn shutoff valve but need a shot of courage to replace it, since this is big-time plumbing stuff.
It is a half-inch copper plumbing pipe. The valve leaks — it slowly leaches water into a Dixie cup. I tried turning the handle forward and backward, and it only made it leak worse every half turn of the valve.
Got any great advice?
A: Gate valves, the type you have now, tend to get flat spots exactly as you describe, and leak or don't close fully — which irritates me to no end.
Ball valves, like the new one you just bought, are quite an improvement. But before you yank the old valve completely off the wall and replace it, you may be able to salvage it ... or at least forestall its replacement for a while with two different manipulations.
Take a shot of courage, and turn the packing nut directly behind the valve handle clockwise. You can frequently get a small drip at the front to go away doing this. Use two wrenches, one on the nut itself, and one on the valve body. The second wrench prevents the valve from turning on the pipe, and prevents damage to same.
If that doesn't do the trick, or if the leak is at the back of the valve, the valve may be loose on the pipe.
Take that second shot of courage, and again place two wrenches on the valve, one on the valve body and the other on the rear nut. This rear nut is tapered inside, and in turn compresses a tapered ferrule, which makes the connection between the pipe and the valve.
If the nut is loose, the valve will leak. The nut fits on the back side of the valve, and tightening it will appear to be loosening it from the front. Righty-tighty, lefty-loosey — except on old Chrysler wheel lugs, and nuts at the back of a plumbing valve. The nut screws clockwise into the valve, which will appear counterclockwise from your perspective.
After all that, if the valve is still leaking, kiss it goodbye and take that third shot of courage. Turn off water at the main house valve or at the water meter, disconnect the supply tube from the toilet and drain it into a can, and drain all water from the plumbing system at the lowest point (typically an external spigot).
Nonetheless, still expect a bit of residual water at your work point. Remove the valve via the aforementioned rear nut and pull it free. The ferrule is likely still attached to the pipe. You must remove this ferrule in order to achieve a leak-free bond with the new valve. Older ferrules may need to be pulled off the pipe with a pair of pliers, twisting left and right as it comes free.
And yes, it is not unheard of to be forced to cut the ferrule off the pipe. If the pipe itself is crimped or out of round, you will need to cut it back to where it is round.
Use sandpaper to rough up and clean up the outer perimeter of the pipe and cut edge, slide on the nut (backwards), followed by the new ferrule and the valve, and tighten the nut and valve together.
Turn off the valve handle, take a fourth shot for courage (make it coffee this time), turn on the water for a test, and you should be good to go.
DarrellHay is a local home inspector and manages several rental properties. Call 206-464-8514 to record a question.
