San Francisco

WHY GO NOW San Francisco may be grown up and cultivated, but its sophistication has a playful, even childlike side. It's not unusual to see a man dressed in a pink bodysuit riding a unicycle, or to find oneself engulfed in a giggly crowd of partygoers dressed up as nuns.

 

Andy Rash

Its quirky sensibility, liberal culture and thriving gay scene breed a nonjudgmental and creative streak that children may find inviting. That's not to say that San Francisco is a magnet for raising families: only a fifth of households have children. Mayberry this is not. Rather, San Francisco is like a favorite aunt or uncle, always ready to spoil the little ones.

And now that San Francisco 's springtime is in full force after one of the rainiest winters on record, the city has taken on a magical glow. There's virtually no chance of rain until the fall, and the legendary fog won't appear in earnest until the end of June.

WHERE TO STAY Recognizing that happy children make happy parents, several San Francisco hotels have done away with the prisonlike cots and are instead featuring kid-centric amenities like crayon-colored bunk beds, toy chests and video games.

At Hotel del Sol (3100 Webster Street, 877-433-5765; www.thehoteldelsol.com), kiddie features include a library stocked with Dr. Seuss, board games, videos like "The Sound of Music" and child-size robes and umbrellas. Parents are not forgotten. Rooms in this renovated 1950's motor lodge have childproof features like outlet covers, and the hotel is conveniently situated in the Marina District, an easy stroller push to Fisherman's Wharf, the Exploratorium and the Golden Gate Bridge. Suites with bunks that sleep up to four start at $179 a night.

For more pampering, try the Omni (500 California Street, 415-677-9494; www.omnihotels.com), in the financial district, close to kid-friendly attractions like Chinatown, North Beach and the Ferry Building. In addition to bunk beds and bean bags, the $350 kids' suite offers a suitcase stuffed with age-appropriate toys, milk-and-cookie turndown service and a concierge who will read bedtime stories to your children, in case you're too pooped yourself.

But those with older children, or at least older-acting ones, might opt for the Hotel Metropolis near Union Square ( 25 Mason Street , 800-553-1900; www.hotelmetropolis.com). Starting at $369, the three-room family suite has a chalkboard, colorful furniture and computer games like Carmen Sandiego. It can sleep up to six, thanks to the pull-out sofa in a living room that also has a refrigerator and a wet bar.

WHERE TO EAT In a city where chefs are worshiped and food is debated like politics, don't expect to find many hot dogs and peanut butter-and-jelly sandwiches. But your children's aversion to fresh fruits and vegetables may change once they bite into a sweet and juicy heirloom tomato.

Start at the Ferry Building at the foot of Market Street — the glorious supercenter of artisanal foods (online at www.ferrybuildingmarketplace.com). The Farmers' Market there is particularly appealing on summer Thursdays, when the crowds are more navigable than on weekends, and there are street musicians, crayon-littered tables and other birthday party-like touches. Pull together mild cheeses from Marin, estate-bottled olive oil and fresh breads for a quick and tasty picnic. Or stop by Taylor 's Automatic Refresher (866-328-3663; www.taylorsrefresher.com), an old-style diner, for unforgettable cheeseburgers and fries ($9.20).

If you find yourself in the Mission District, you owe the family burritos. One of the best places is La Corneta (2731 Mission, 415-643-7001), a large taqueria where boisterous families of all stripes — from dapper Salvadorian clans to blue-haired lesbian collectives — tuck into hearty San Francisco-style Mexican food. And you can't beat the price: about $5 for a burrito.

Likewise, dim sum is a great bet. Kids can't seem to get enough of the eye-popping décor, bonbon-size portions and lively atmosphere where there's no need to whisper like adults. There are lots of dim sum palaces in Chinatown , though many are crowded on weekends. For consistently good fare, try Lichee Garden ( 1416 Powell Street , 415-397-2290), where lunch for four is usually under $50.

Afterward, stroll to the Golden Gate Fortune Cookie Factory (56 Ross Alley, 415-781-3956) for — you guessed it — fresh fortune cookies. Opened in 1962, this hole-in-the-wall bakery offers a peek at how those little messages get inside.

WHAT TO DO DURING THE DAY Since the rainy season is over, there's no point in staying indoors. A Giants game at AT&T Park , along the water's edge, feels like a throwback to a more innocent time. If you get there soon, you can watch Barry Bonds close in on Hank Aaron's all-time homerun record (tickets available at giants.mlb.com or 877-473-4849; bleacher seats from $13; just $6 for kids on weekdays).

Golden Gate Park is a delight, especially on Sundays when much of it is closed to cars. Spread across some 1,000 acres are playgrounds, lakes, woods, landscaped gardens and family-oriented attractions like the Conservatory of Flowers, which currently has a butterfly show (415-666-7001; www.conservatoryofflowers.org; $5; $3 for ages 12 to 17; $1.50 for 5 to 12). If your children appreciate art, the new de Young Museum is also here (415-863-3330; www.deyoungmuseum.org; $10 admission, under 13 free). Otherwise, you can rent a whimsical four-seat pedal-powered "surrey" to cruise the park, or a boat to paddle around Stow Lake. You'll find both options at the boathouse at 50 Stow Lake Drive , where Wheel Fun Rentals, 415-668-6699, rents the surreys, for $30 an hour, and Stow Lake Boat Rentals, 415-752-0347, charges $14 to $29 an hour, depending on type of boat; cash only.

For an educational outing that is actually fun, the Exploratorium in the Marina District ( 3601 Lyon Street , 415-561-0360; www.exploratorium.edu) features inventive, hands-on exhibits that teach kids about science and perception. Admission is $13; $8 for children 4 to 12. The beloved Tactile Dome — a completely dark maze where visitors must feel their way through chambers and tunnels — is an additional $5 and requires a reservation.

Whether you like it or not, you'll probably find yourself at Fisherman's Wharf. The good news is that it's not all tacky and commercial. Walk to the end of Pier 39 and watch sea lions loafing and frolicking on floating docks. At Pier 45 is the U.S.S. Pampanito, a World War II submarine (415-775-1943; www.maritime.org). Admission is $9; $3 for ages 6 to 12 . Also nearby is the Hyde Street Pier, where you can board old schooners and steam-powered vessels for $5 (kids under 16 go free).

WHAT TO DO AT NIGHT The Great American Music Hall (859 O'Farrell Street, 415- 885-0750; www.gamh.com) is that rarest of things: a top-flight rock club that is open to music fans as young as 6. Order a warm chocolate cake, and watch performances by acts like the indie band Sleater-Kinney and the singer-songwriter T-Bone Burnett. For something closer to a bar scene, drop in to Citizen Cupcake, a small cafe that stays open until 10 on weekend nights (2 Stockton Street, upstairs in the Virgin Megastore, 415-399-1565; www.citizencupcake.com). The little ones can enjoy pineapple upside-down cupcakes ($3.50) while you unwind with a soju appletini ($7).

WHERE TO SHOP San Francisco is awash in quirky shops that appeal to kids as much as adults. Lots of novelty items can be found on Grant Avenue in Chinatown , where the charmingly tawdry goods of the Far East beckon. (Be forewarned: those firecracker-like paper snaps quickly become irritating.) Or make your way to Haight Street , the former hippie zone where you can outfit the whole family in tie dye. Even better, check out Kid Robot (1512 Haight Street, 415-487-9000; www.kidrobot.com) for the latest in superhip anime-style toys.

For a shopping experience that might as well be in Narnia, head to Valencia Street in the Mission . The Pirate Supply Store (No. 826; 415-642-5905; www.826valencia.org/store) sells eye patches, spyglasses and prosthetic limbs. Next door, at Paxton Gate (No. 824; 415-824-1872; www.paxtongate.com), you'll find a wunderkammer of the odd and gross. Youngsters can ogle the collection of glass eyes, mounted insects and stuffed mice, while you consider the Japanese garden tools, exotic bromeliads and rare teas. Be sure to pick up a few of the lollipops with crunchy insects inside.

HOW TO STAY WIRED While Google's plans for a citywide Wi-Fi network have yet to bear fruit, San Francisco is said to have more hot spots than any other city in the country. You can get free access at most hotels and cafes, a few public spaces like Union Square and at most libraries ( www.sfpl.org).

YOUR FIRST TIME OR YOUR 10TH Hop on a ferry to Alcatraz Island to tour the notorious prison, now operated by the National Park Service. It may sound touristy, but there's no easier way to enjoy the Bay's breathtaking beauty. Tours last two and a half hours and leave from Pier 41 (415-705-5555; www.blueandgoldfleet.com; $16.50; $10.75 for children 5 to 11). Or take the Blue and Gold ferry from the same pier to Sausalito ($8.50; $4.50 for ages 5 to 11 , each way), where you can kayak around that gorgeous and sheltered section of the Bay. You can rent kayaks from Sea Trek (Schoonmaker Point, 415-488-1000; www.seatrekkayak.com; rates start at $25 an hour for a two-person kayak).

HOW TO GET THERE San Francisco is served by both the Oakland and San Francisco airports. JetBlue has direct flights to Oakland from Kennedy Airport . The flight lasts about five hours, but the 36 channels of satellite television in every seat might help keep the young ones entertained. United has direct flights to San Francisco from Newark. Air fare on both airlines runs about $400 in late May.

HOW TO GET AROUND If you're staying in the city's center, a car will be more trouble than it's worth. Instead, buy a weeklong CityPass (888-330-5008; www.citypass.com; $49; $39 for children 5 to 17), which gives you unlimited use of Muni buses, trolleys, cable cars and historic streetcars. It also includes admission to major attractions like the Exploratorium and the San Francisco Museum of Modern Art.

 

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